May 27, 2014 - Prague

Leaving Berlin made me a bit nervous. I was setting out into Europe completely alone, to a country that I did not know a single word of the language. I had stopped in Prague once before, heading home from my first deployment, though we were not allowed to get off the plane. This would be my chance to return on my terms, and I wanted it to be a triumphant one.

The trip there involved a train to Nuremburg and then a bus to Prague. While on the train I stopped in the lounge and had a beer, meeting a nice German character named Uwe and a couple guys who were clearly in the US military. Our meeting was pretty casual, but it was my first real conversation with strangers during travels where one of my goals was to reach out to others. Almost as soon as we started to get to know each other I had to get back to my seat, pack my things, and then transfer to the bus. We had arrived in Nuremburg.

The bus proved to be more comfortable than I imagined, even considering that there wasn’t a single empty seat. Next to me was a very nice Czech lady named Helen. We immediately started a conversation about traveling, Prague, and the United States. As we got to the border and then when we got closer to the city she would point things out to me that she suggested I see. I knew that Prague was a major tourist destination in Europe, and there was no lack of advice from her. Her suggestions were all welcome however, and she eased a bit of my concern of being in a new, strange city all alone.

My hostel was only a 5-minute walk from the station and easy to find, which was a part of my plan. I wanted to find my base as soon as possible. Hostel Rosemary proved to be a great choice. They were very nice and accommodating of my late arrival and eventual early morning departure. It was my first time staying in a hostel actually, and I found my entire experience there pleasurable. After dropping off my things I immediately left to find dinner.

The streets of Prague are not very organized, to say the least, but I found that to be part of its old-world charm. The architecture is beautiful, as there are sights to see around every corner. It is a very small city, in terms of the tourist-y destinations, which has its benefits and problems. I feel like I saw everything I wanted in a very short time, though the elbow-to-elbow crowds were frustrating at times. There were only a few places to see on my list while in Prague, and in no particular order I began by just walking out of the hostel and going where the city wanted to take me. Starting toward the city center, I first wandered into the Dali and Mucha Museum. Every art student is very familiar with the works of these men, but seeing them in person left an impression that I did not anticipate. The Dali collection was great, but it was Mucha’s giant lithographs that took my breath away. Understanding the intense processes of the medium and then to see it on the scale of which he worked made my jaw drop over and over again. I exited the museum feeling meek and under-dedicated to my practice in comparison to these masters, having to remind myself that I just reviewed pretty much their entire life’s work in order to shake the feeling.

Now back in the sea of people, I followed the herd toward the Charles Bridge, possibly the most photographed site in Prague. I somewhat could not understand why this is, but figured that there was something about the history I did not know. Immediately on the east side of the bridge I saw a sign that said “City Gallery” and so decided to take refuge from the swarm with the hopes of looking at some more art in a decidedly less crowded space. Although they did not take euros and I had no Czech crowns on hand, the nice lady at the front provided me a ticket for free. I am so lucky she did.

It turned out to not be a gallery, per se, but a very historic site exhibited by the city gallery: The Colloredo-Mansfeld Palace. Parts were fairly run-down, empty satellite rooms with cracked paint on the walls and squeaky floorboards. The information provided by the gallery painted a marvelous picture of the officials who once lived there, the wealthy elite of a very powerful city. As I continued on the story grew more fantastic, eventually arriving at the crown jewel – the ballroom. Mind you that as soon as I walked into the building I was alone. Not a single other person on the busy streets decided that this old, dilapidated building was worth their time to see -a travesty, in my opinion, because I found it absolutely magical. The story continued to unfold, about fantastic masquerade balls, attended by kings and queens, performances by Mozart, the ceiling fresco painted by Giovanni Battista. It was dead silent, but my imagination filled the space with the energy that must have stirred that space in centuries past. I had to take a picture. This one’s for you, Calvin.

After leaving the palace I crossed the Charles Bridge heading west towards the Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral. To reiterate my earlier statement, Prague’s charm lies firmly in its architectural achievements and their incredible preservation. Growing up and living in the United States, there is no opportunity to experience anything like these monuments unless you travel far and seek them out. I am so lucky to have had this opportunity. The list would only continue to grow. St. Nicholas Church(es - there are two in Prague), the gorgeous astronomical clock, the Powder Tower, the National Theater… I’ve lost track of them all.

One site I visited stood out as a particular oddity. The Dancing House, designed by famed architect Frank Gehry, is a polarizing building for the people of Prague. The contemporary design that is a signature of Gehry’s stands in stark opposition to the rest of the city’s design. Inside held some amazing artwork, something I took notice of there being a lot of in Prague. The contemporary work being done there is an interesting counter-balance for the very visible history that draws much of the tourism. It created a dichotomy that is unresolved in some ways, although I think I like it that way and would prefer it not be. Too much history gets old sometimes, pun not intended, and it was refreshing to see a vibrant art community that isn’t completely caught up in its past. 

 
My two days in Prague were consumed by walking, seeing art/architecture, eating authentic regional food, and drinking lots of great beer – par for the course so far on this trip. I enjoyed Prague very much; save for the endless mass of tourists and the prevalent consumer culture that inevitably accompanies it. I acknowledge that in fact I was just another one of those tourists though, but will remember most fondly the moments of relative solitude where I was able to gain perspective on this and thereby separate myself from the pack.

The night before I left I spent in my hostel kitchen, sharing tea and conversation with two young gentlemen from Lyon, France, Theo and Thomas. It is the unexpected connections between strangers that seem to be making this trip unique and special for me. I remember thinking this before falling asleep, not realizing just how salient the observation would become in the following days as I would continue my journey back to Germany the following morning. I took the bus to Nuremburg at dawn.